Well Clay,
This is worth far more than 2 cents to me! This is exactly the information I 
am looking for, and thank you for sharing so freely.
This week I have completed printing 30 large pds--didn't think I could do 
it, but I did and I realized two things:  how greatly I respect you 
inveterate pd printers and  how much you learn by doing something over and 
over and over.  I realize how addictive pt/pd is, especially because results 
come in one printing unlike gum, but I also realize that my first love and 
expertise is and will be certainly gum!  If things don't come out right the 
first time, there's always another layer....
BTW, speaking of pd over albumen or some other glossy surface, I made a pd 
print yesterday on top of a gelatin sized paper (I ran out of Platine :(). 
At an exposure time of 8.5 minutes UVBL it was barely there and I noticed in 
the developer that it mostly swooshed off.  So I printed the image in gum, 
and then returned to printing a layer of pd on top of the gum (I know that 
doesn't make a bit of sense since the surface is now even more glossy, but I 
wanted to experiment with the King process outlined in View Camera mag), and 
I printed it at 17 minutes.  It worked but has a tendency in the developer 
even at that gross exposure to wash off the gum layer. That makes logical 
sense, I guess, but for some reason I was thinking it'd behave like gum and 
be more tenacious with further exposure.
Interestingly, cyanotype on top of gum has much more tenacity, as I have 
done lots of those.  I have no idea why this should be different with pd. 
The reason I brought this up is my experience is similar to yours, below, 
that it sure makes more sense to let the pd sink into the paper and do the 
layers of other stuff on top.  But I have to say I do like the print!
Chris
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Clay" <wcharmon@wt.net>
To: <alt-photo-process-l@usask.ca>
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 4:50 AM
Subject: Re: palladium drydown and developer
> There was a minor amount of sub-rosa discussion bandied about among  some 
> of the attendees of the last APIS about this issue. It was  stated at the 
> conference by Mr King that these mysterious methods for  eliminating 
> platinum drydown are two-fold: one method involves using  albumen as a 
> sizing agent prior to coating, the other a similar  approach using 
> collodion.
>
> You may reasonably ask how these work. Well, I tried them. As you can 
> well imagine, the albumen provides a wonderfully smooth surface on  the 
> paper for the sensitizer to slop around upon. When I tried this  at home 
> using various dilutions of albumen 'subbing' on paper, I  found it messy 
> and not all that effective. I also have questions  about the propensity 
> for yellowing that albumen exhibits in every  true albumen print I have 
> ever seen that has any years on it.
>
> The collodion method proved very frustrating. The stuff is loaded  with 
> ether and alcohol and went right through several of the  papers  I was 
> using, leaving me with more of a grease-o-type than a platinum  print.
>
> Easy, simple, effective? Not in my experience. Admittedly, I did not  do 
> an exhaustive test on every possible paper, but I did try the  papers I 
> commonly use: Fabriano EW, Rives BFK, COT320 and Whatman's.  My 
> assessment? Not worth the hassle.
>
> I think the reputation for drydown in platinum comes from the tonal  scale 
> being 'squeezed' from both ends. As others have pointed out,  the 
> shrinkage of the paper as it dries brings image forming particles  closer 
> together in the highlight areas, causing them to visually  darken 
> slightly. The way to avoid this, again, as others have pointed  out, is to 
> use papers that exhibit a lower degree of  dimensional  change as they 
> dry.
>
> The other phenomenon that has not been mentioned is the microscopic 
> 'fuzzing' of the paper surface that occurs as paper dries. This seems  to 
> affect the dark shadow areas much more. It is really more  accurately 
> called 'dry-up'. If you slap a wet pt/pd print on a  reflection 
> densitometer, you will get a much higher reading (in the  1.8 range) than 
> you will a few hours later after it has dried. The  tiny fibers of the 
> paper then stand proud and cause a loss of  reflection density that in the 
> best of cases will give you reflection  densities in the neighborhood of 
> 1.4-1.5. This is almost a full stop  of reflection density loss.
>
> As to what can be done to mitigate this effect, I have found that  very 
> light gelatin sizing (in the 1% range) can help to a degree.  Another 
> approach is to deal with this after the print is dry and  apply either wax 
> or subsequent gum coats. I have a waxed vellum print  that has measured 
> Dmax of 1.9 using several layers of Gamblin cold  wax medium.
>
> My personal preference is for additional layers of expose gum, since  it 
> offers so many options for color manipulation of the image.  Finally, a 
> coat of Liquitex Gloss medium diluted 1:8 will also have  the effect of 
> causing a measurable (though relatively minor half  stop) increase in 
> Dmax. Again, I think this is because it causes the  microscopic fibers to 
> lay down and behave.
>
> One final method that I have heard mentioned but have not tried is to  run 
> the finished print through an etching press and 'calendar' the  paper.
>
> My two cents and experience with the issue,..
>
> Clay
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2006, at 12:59 AM, davidhatton@totalise.co.uk wrote:
>
>> Dear Mr. King,
>>
>> I'm sorry but I must ask you. Why do you keep doing this? You drop  into 
>> a thread
>> hinting that you have some knowledge of the subject and then, when  you 
>> are asked
>> to substantiate your ideas, you start an argument. You also use  every 
>> opportunity
>> to sell some aspect of your business. You then have the audacity to  tell 
>> people
>> that they lay out data unfairly. Most people on this list help  people 
>> freely. Why
>> can't you? You agreed to post a single coat gum on your website  which 
>> you have
>> also failed to do. I personally, have come to the conclusion that  you 
>> are all
>> smoke and mirrors and that you bring nothing but strife and  contention 
>> to this list.
>>
>> It's about time you stopped Mr. King. I don't have time for you.  And do 
>> you know
>> the worst thing? I feel betrayed by you.
>>
>> David Hatton
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---- - Madasafish - Voted Best Heavy Consumer Broadband Provider in  the 
>> 2006 Internet Industry Awards http://www.madasafish.com/
>
> 
Received on 07/21/06-09:37:48 AM Z
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