Re: Platinotype woes and now papers for pt/pd
 
 
Chris,
 
Cranes Cover was THE paper to print PD/PT on till they buffered it a 
lot in the late '80s. Dick Arentz and friends talked Cranes into making 
a batch "like they used to" around 1990. Dick still has some, and uses 
it only when he needs extra smoothness. I have a small stash too and no 
I'm not going to part with it! ;-)
 
But the Cranes can't be treated in oxalic acid presoak - it removes all 
sizing and turn into blotter paper! I believe this applies to the 
current products as well. If someone finds it contrary I would love to 
know. Which means if it doesn't work well, try humidity control. If 
that still doesn't work, you've got nice drawing paper.
 
Sam
 
On Sep 3, 2006, at 11:52 AM, Christina Z. Anderson wrote:
 Camden and all, 
For the record, there were several list members that said a few years 
back that Cranes Cover (aka Platinotype) Extra White was not suitable 
for pt/pd, and Cranes knew about this issue.  I can't remember what 
the reasoning behind the listees complaints was at the time because I 
was not slugging through trials and tribulations with pt/pd printing. 
Google Cranes in the list archive around 1999-2003. Maybe it was 
bleeding...if someone has used it recently and it is OK please 
respond. 
 
If I am not mistaken, there is Crane's natural white extra white, and 
then a buff, correct?  Anyway, the NATURAL white is fine.  I would be 
surprised if B and S would carry a paper that was not suitable for 
pt/pd printing so either Cranes fixed the problem, or it isn't the 
extra white. 
 
Eric, I told you that my Platine was wrapped by Daniel Smith and I was 
wrong--it is in 25 sheet packs wrapped in brown by Arches, itself.  I 
will look inside and see if I can find batch numbers and if they are 
different. 
 
Camden, I am biting the bullet and buying Cot 320.  When you waste 
days figuring out bleeding issues, spending $5 or $6 on a piece of 
paper PALES by comparison :) 
 
However, I personally like Platine and how it handles, which is why I 
keep working with it, assuming my practice is at fault and not the 
paper...and was able to get some beautiful prints yesterday with all 
the list's help on humidity, Everclear, sodium citrate, lucky 
underwear...but it is tricky, because if the paper is too damp, the 
print tends toward dull gray and so it has to be just right. 
 
I'm tellin' ya, gum is a piece of CAKE compared to this!  But when you 
get a beautiful print it is well worth it. Makes me really want to go 
out and buy a real humidifier for the room--MT will never be above 40% 
humidity. 
Chris 
 
 
 
 
 |